Quote:
Originally Posted by SD Blue
I read back through this thread and noticed there hasn't been any mention of checking all of the grounds for this problem. In particular, the engine-to-chassis ground strap. If this strap is corroded/loose, it can cause very intermittent problems. This could also be the reason the alternator keeps failing. Also, check the grounding of the voltage regulator to the alternator casing.
I've encountered both of these problems and scratched my head for a bit, trying to resolve a no-charge problem.
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I've checked them in that I've physically inspected them for corrosion, tightness, and measured the ohm load between the major components, such as the engine block to chassis and batter negative terminal, aren't too high. I reliably see .01 OHMs in all cases. I've not checked the OHM load from the alternator positive leads to the starter lug, and from the starter lug to the battery. This is on my checklist for tonight. I did check the grounding of the voltage regulator to the alternator housing with alternator #1, but not #2 or #3. I just assumed they'd be screwed together decently well enough and they came with new voltage regulators.
Quote:
Originally Posted by benedict
Jeffroooo,
How are you with the multmeter? You're really going to have to start measuring currents now.
Fastest way to measure consumption (or leakage) is with a clamp on meter. Once you have found there is a large draw on the battery, you can then start checking the sub-circuits one by one, or consumer circuits as they are often referred to in the land of auto.
Alternators are for keeping your battery charged and shouldn't be used to charge a flat battery. If it is your only option, say if you were away from home, then sure you have to. Alternators only like a 75% duty on them, and not continuously either.
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Well like I said in the video, I'm no electrical genius. I don't own a clamp-on meter. I'm guessing they measure amperage as well as voltage? I'd like to own and play with one, maybe this will be the impetuous to finally purchase one. My battery is typically fully charged or nearly so when I swap on an alternator, I've always charged it with my external charger prior to swapping on a new alt. I've tried pulling the fuses one by one while watching battery voltage with no change. Speaking of continuous draw though, I have had my aux fan wired to run continuously on key-on. I did this because the switch on the dryer has been flaky. Do you think that would do-in the alt? I know plenty of other cars with electric fans that run all the time without that problem.