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The last picture is the tool I made to remove the casle nut. Maybe someone who knows more about these pumps have a secret about the casle nut. I used heat, destroyed one tool completely, and if you look at this picture closely, you can see it had been fixed once. I finally inserted hardened allen key type material in the holes, but it finally took a pipe wrench to remove the nut. As I posted earlier, to repair the pumps for leaks etc, it is not a bad job, once it is off the car. I decided to repair the pump myself because I did not know if the engine was any good. I was willing to put $100.00 into it (the pump) but not the 750.00 I was quoted. It is hard to really screw it up unless you force something and break it. All the parts should be kept together. The piston in the corresponding bore, the respective follower to the cam, because these are all items that develop a certain wear pattern. If the I.P piston cylinders are removed and not marked, you will probably have to have it calibrated by an injection shop. I did not as I marked the exact position I found it in. I think not having them properly positioned would alter the idle and high speed. I forgot to mention that they also have shims underneath the pump cylinder bodies. I would not alter these either as this all plays into the idle and high speed operation. If you have any other questions I will try to answer them.
Thanks to GSXR in instructing me how to post the pictures.
PeterG
79 300 SD
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