Originally Posted by gerryvz

You are quite welcome.

Unfortunately, URO doesn't make most of the parts that I needed for the top-end rebuild, so I had to use factory parts. But, URO says they are now an MB OEM, so perhaps in the future they will be offering their great parts through MB channels.

I did not need a hoist. I removed the cylinder head (with both cams still attached) myself by lifting it. A moving blanket placed on the fender and over the air filter area serves as a good resting spot once the head is removed, to rest it on, before lifting it again and carefully placing it on the shop floor or workbench.

The factory procedure and several threads here on PeachParts are helpful and quite clear in nailing the cam timing. Don't worry too much about retarding the cams 30 degrees -- that is just a point in the engine rotation where the cams can be rotated and none of the valves can physically contact any of the pistons.

What you need to focus on is having the engine set at TDC, and the cams both zero'd out with the photos in my post and other posts where the drill bits are inserted into the ends of the cam sprockets. The drill bits MUST be even with the top of the cylinder head. If not, rotate each cam so that it is. Once you have the engine at TDC, and both cams lined up with the drill bits laying across the top of the head, you are in time.

Then, when the cams are set and the engine is still at TDC, but BEFORE you install the timing chain on the sprockets, you need to rotate the sprocket on the driver's side with your hand, in a clockwise motion until it stops. This will probably be about 10-20 degrees of rotation. DON'T rotate the cam itself -- only grab the teeth of the sprocket with your fingers and rotate the sprocket only. This is done with your right hand when you are standing in front of the car, looking over the engine.


That's when you install the timing chain and top guide. I installed a new chain, but you can certainly use your old chain. If your chain has more than 150K miles on it, I'd replace it. Good idea to replace the top guide too - it's cheap.

Does this help clear it up?

No, No, No NEVER use gasket sealer or RTV or anything else. Head gasket alone per factory spec.

For the front timing cover, you need two types of sealing goop for the space in between the cover, head and block (a clear MB sealant) and for the timing cover to the end of the cylinder head (an orange colored MB anaerobic sealant). Don't substitute anything for these -- just get the MB sealants and do it right the first time.

Cheers,
Gerry