OK, so with both the supply & return lines clamped, fuel pressure still goes from 38 PSI to 20 PSI in less than half an hour. My understanding from what I have read is that this identifies the injectors as the leakers -- is that correct?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulfiqar
If thats a 3.1 v6 - I can gurantee that the lower manifold gasket is shot, replace and remember to use proper GM engine sealant or toyota FIPG on the blank space between the 2 gaskets. If you dont and use pep boys/autozone/FLAPS etc gasket maker then you get back to square one faster than a veyron accelerates from 60-100 mph.
The rich running issue is usually a bad MAP sensor or bad fuel pressure regulator.
Another tip - if you are changing the ATF and dont fancy bathing in it then undo the supply line for cooler - (small circlip) and install a hose on it and dump into a bucket. Start engine and allow it to empty the transmission pan for you - now you can get under the car and remove the transmission sump neatly.
If your radiator has the smaller type cooler line fittings then you can buy a barb for it from autozone etc - its about 3 dollars - shove a hose on it and do the same as above.
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But the guy at Pep Boys is great! He said his sealant works on any car!
JK. I'll be sure to use the proper sealer.
Holy cow, there's no drain plug? Seriously? What on earth...
Thanks for the tips!
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwitchKitty
My experience backs everything this guy said. I previously mentioned the MAP sensor. Did you check it with a vacuum pump and electric meter?
Your manual has a section for driveability issues, should cover rich condition and give a flow sheet of tests.
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It's a MAF, and it appears to be in good working order.
Yeah, I've been working with the stuff in the manual while also blazing my own path. I am an independent thinker auto diagnoser.
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