Quote:
Originally Posted by funola
Don't forget the pump itself also generates heat so you have to add that to the engine heat. Instead of insulating it, why not relocate it to a lower elevation? Where you have it is the worst possible place. Pumps should be placed lower than the outlets anyway to avoid siphon action..
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Very unlikey conclusion as you comment based upon the
facts thus far. Without insulation, I gained 20F. There's many "worst" places, such as inside the cabin where it hits 130F during the summer with the windows rolled up. The trunk is pretty close. But, I see a ton of folks who really tinker with the M+W stuff and they have trunk mounted kits. I could mount the pump on the roof and I bet it would hit 115F+ in the summer. So, that leaves the engine bay. Even assuming I could mount it down by the bumper or the farthest possible area from "any" heat source, does 20F make a difference? I doubt it. With insulation, I am betting that will solve 10F even though the product I am getting claims up to 90% of radiant heat is blocked. So, will 10F or even 20F make a difference? I doubt it. How much heat the pump generates will be tested. Who knows, maybe your guess work is correct. As for my real engine, the 115 longrunner intake won't work with the current plate mounted application, so I am hunting for a new spot in 2015. As for the pumps specs, I could mount that pump underneath the car or the roof and I would only be getting to around 1/4th of the pump's draw specs. Currently, it's around 10", which is 1/8th of the pump's specs. I do appreciate the comments, and the insulation never crossed my mind, but the other stuff you commetned on a few times fails any real test or real measurement.