First position is full heat. Shown on the valve and in the cab.




If you unhook the drivers side cable you can turn the valve back towards the firewall a little more.

Second set of pictures is heat off.

To actually get the heat off you have to unhook the cables and turn the arms clockwise another 1/4"-1/8" of a turn.

I think I need to remove the arms and turn them 90 degrees CCW in respect to the barrel. But I don't incision this giving the dash control full range. When I slide the dash to full off the cables stick out farther than any position possible on the arm.

Maybe they will work, but I don't get full 100% heat. It will be the same as now, only I can hit full off instead of full on.

It could be the design, but seems weird to have the extra space on the dash sliders. Maybe someone swapped the cables. From everyone pics they sent me my holes in the firewall match this type of valve.

People selling valves on eBay claim that this type of valve is for 68-73 and the other with the arms on the side are for 74-76. However, one forum has a 72 with the updated valve type.

In retrospect this car had a fuel filter assembly from a 76 240D.

It's gonna take an old guy with experience with those cables to determine what's going on.

Maybe I should find a source for cables and get some dimensions of the end lengths. Maybe you have an early 115 220D and want to measure them for me...

I obviously cleaned this thing up and put generic o-rings in. I've ordered the right rings from mercedes now that I know it's the right valve.
I documented the valve before disassembly with pictures. I'm pretty good about that. But this car had seen some novice work, so I don't count on the guy before me having it right.