There are actually three fasteners (a combo of nuts and bolts) on the alternator that need to be loosened to remove it. The adjustment bracket comes out with the alternator, it seems. See this picture for location of the three bolts/nuts.
And see the second page of this thread for some pictures:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/285723-alternator-replacement-w123-2.html
Regarding BOTH brake lights being on, see this post from a previous thread:
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If you notice, when the car is electrically powered by the battery - engine not running - all the lights are lit with key turned to the run position. When the alternator and voltage regulator take over, the lights go out, unless there is a specific problem to report or, in the case of the high beam indicator, you turn the high beams on. When the brushes in the voltage regulator get worn they make relatively poor contact with the commutator (rotor) and add a higher resistance to the charging circuit. This reduces the voltage below the level where the dash lights want to come on because they "think" the engine is not running. Initially, at higher rpm the alternator puts out a higher voltage at the commutator and enough voltage will make it to the other side to dim the lights, or even shut them off. As the wear continues the lights come on brighter and don't fade out as rpms increase, until they stay fully lit all the time and your radio shuts off and the headlights fade out.
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