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To do what you've described (replace the seal) basically do this:
- Pull radiator
- Disconnect the fan from the water pump
- Loosen alternator & power steering belt
- Remove pulley from the crank
- Remove the bolt from the crank
- Remove the harmonic balancer from the crank
- Remove the front seal
- Assembly is the reverse of removal
The radiator is held down with a rubber donut on each end that can be stretched with a well placed screw driver. At the bottom are two fittings for the transmission cooler. A 19mm flare wrench is the right tool to remove them. Keep them clean and free of dirt. Catch the fluid that will spill lest you make a puddle of red goo. Be sure to replace the lines if they appear worn. Loosing one of these is unpleasant.
The alternator adjuster comes in two styles. A simple L shaped metal bracket and a more interesting long bolt that looks like a nut over the end. Either way, loosen, but don't remove the bolt facing the radiator (13mm wrench would do it). Then you can change the adjustment nut if it's the long bolt style. That requires a deep 14mm socket, IIRC.
The power steering adjustment is about as complicated, maybe a bit more so.
The pulley is attached by 6 in-hex machine screws (cap screws). You need a long 6mm allen wrench to remove it and you must ensure that you remove the dirt from inside each one. Sears or harbor freight can sell you the right tool. You're going to need the 5mm, 8mm & 10mm long wrenches too some day soon, so buy the set.
The crank bolt is 28mm. A 1 1/8" socket works too if you already have it. It is torqued down very well. You can't casually remove it. You need to immobilize the ring gear on the flywheel to do this. The easy way is to remove the inspection cover at the back of the engine that exposes the flywheel. You could also remove the starter, but that's more complicated (and you must disconnect the battery first or you'll likely destroy the car).
With the inspection cover off, you can jam a screw driver in there and let it get wedged in place as you loosen the nut. If you like buying tools, they make something that meshes with the gear teeth; that works too. When I started doing this way back when, I took a small piece of aluminum plate and cut it to look like a crescent moon with teeth cut-outs (lots of time with a dremel; it's lovely in its crudeness). The result is a nifty tool that I've used for about 30 years now, when I remember where I put it. When I can't find it, I use a screw driver. To get the screw driver back out, remember to turn the nut the other way after you've gotten it loose. Another easy way to do this job is with an impact wrench, but I'm hopelessly stone age.
When you take the nut off, there are a set of like 3 cone washers. put them back on pointing the same way. and you're going to want to use a torque wrench on the bolt. Don't just (over) tighten it with all your might.
The harmonic balancer removal tool from sears or harbor freight works just fine. It's a simple gear puller of sorts. Don't damage the threads for the crank bolt.
Now you can clean the front of the block and replace the seal.
Having said all that, this usually isn't the first job somebody does on one of these cars unless that seal's really, really bad. That or you've already been having fun with the car and you haven't shared your adventures yet.
The M130 is a pretty simple motor and presents some challenges due to its age and the precision engineering involved. Welcome to the forum and we look forward to helping by being your arm-chair mechanics.
-CTH
PS. While you have all that apart, you might want to remove the water pump housing and replace the little rubber hose that connects it to the thermostat. You might also want to do a coolant flush either before or after all of the above.
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