Quote:
Originally Posted by Mersadie
Thank you guys so much for the quick responses! I will just go ahead and answer our questions in chronilogical order.
1.vstech: The camshaft was not spec'd, but looks very very healthy, no scoring or scratches or rounded lobes.
The timing is absolutely perfect, unless the marker is wrong. was very careful with that.
How would air get in the fuel?
-I was very suspicous of ip timing, but drove it for months dailyat exactly 24* BTDC(carefully drip timed). When the new pump went on, I timed it at 26*BTDC to try and reduce some cold start coughing. That solved that issue, and seems a tad more responsive.
-Compression Tester is going on order very very soon. Not a fan of Harbor Freight.
-The engine has run for months on a dailybasis, so I think its out of the break-in period... And the IP is drip timed.
-The money is being spent on things that would get replaced anyway. Every compenent before I started had 250k+ miles on it. It may seem crazy, but the goal of this project is to get the car back to its original glory to experience exactly what the person who drove it off the lot in 1982 felt.
-Like I said earlier, as far as I can see the engine reads perfectly timed, but that is a very good idea for checking if the markers are right. Do you mean just stick a straw in the prechamber and tape the base of it? How do you seal it in?
Once again, thank you guys. Already lots of useful info and things I need to try now.
Heres another question though. the other day when we were in checking the valves, we found large traces of oil in the air cleaner flex tube, and into the turbo. Now while i know this is coming from the top of the valvecover into the oil seperator, and while im posotive the oil seperator isn't doing its job, do you think that it is just the fact that the excessive blow by is shoving more oil up there than the seperator was ever meant to handle?
Thanks!
- Matthew.
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Something like a rubber with a hole drilled through for a straw or whatever you can think up. There is no pressure to deal with. Yes I would expect the blow by to be responsible for the oil being present.
For others members information. When I was casting septic tanks in situ. I would deal with my form ties by putting them through 1/2 in pipe. These pieces of plastic pipe also controlled the forms separation. I used 3/8 threaded rod for form ties.
The plastic pipes where easily driven out of the concrete later. I had noticed years before that when drilling out rubber with deep hole saws the result was a tapered rubber plug. Drilling two inch rubber surplus disks was done with a 3/4 hole saw and resulted in a well tapered very tight fitting plug.
Driving them into the pipe holes gave the tanks an absolute seal. No reason they will not last the life of the tank anyways. That is the way I personally would make up a shallow plug for the injector hole with a passage drilled through for a straw. There are probably easier ways though.
Some of my behaviours unfortunately get undesired side effects. The regulations at the time stated the builder of the septic tanks where responsible for the tanks integrity. I guess they had never considered guys like myself exist.
I could form and pour a 2000 gallon tank in 5000 pound grade concrete in less than half a day top and all for three hundred dollars back then. So the scoundrels changed the provincial regulations to allow only csa/ual approved septic tanks.
Departments like the environment here dislike people slipping out of their excessive controls. First they tried getting engineers to inspect and find my tanks lacking in comparison to commercial preformed tanks.That did not fly at all well for them.
The tanks I made where vastly superior. Todays approved concrete pre cast tanks sold locally and certified have what are to me serious shortcomings.
The engineers did drive some of my plugs out for inspection and where surprised they where tapered. When asked where I acquired them I told them I just fabricated them myself. I sensed they wanted to ask how but that might show their limitations. Hard rubber plugs with a nice taper are easy and fast to produce.