Taking them apart required the strength of Hercules, so I had to cheat with a cheater bar but it still took all of my umph to get them part. I copy katted the tread from WGB from W116.org for the most part, although I found some tactics not working.
First, they needed to be situated in the vice only one way since they moved no matter what. Here's a picture of how I held them in the vice. You can see in the later pictures how if you're not careful, you can gouge the surface really bad. I do not believe this went deeper then the threads, so I should be OK. Just stinks. My virtually perfect painted surface is no more.
After the tops and bottoms came off, it was pretty easy after that. It looks like 2 nylon bushings and 3 or 4 O-rings. There was liberal locktite.
The piston parts do not appear to be rebuildable other than replacing the O-rings and nylon inserts. I suspect it will be impossible to find the "piston rings". I do not understand the shim layout, but I zipped tied them so they did not come apart. I took pictures to remember their orientation. Even the top nut was staked in the corners which makes me think everything is torqued to specific values. A Sach's factory shop manual would be helpful now.
When you remove the casted metal top piece, you will see the 17mm staked nut and then a triangle washer, then the first shim set which starts off with small to larger ones. Again, not sure why that is so.
Here's a picture which shows their sequence: Nut, triangle washer, then shim set (1st).
Then, the top piston which consists of 2 types of rings (like an engine piston).
Then, the 2nd set of shims, in reverse order as the top ones.
Then, the inner ram. I turned it counter-clockwise a bunch of times, although I do not think that had anything to do with it's removal.