You don't dismount and replace the cable; you replace the whole regulator. It is much easier, faster, and less expensive (in terms of your valuable time) than any attempt to fix regulator parts. Look at this YouTube video and you will feel more confident about it:
Mercedes Window Regulator Replacement (Rear E320)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftzF8oIohzg
The panel is simple to remove; your only risk is breaking the lower (plastic) clips when putting the panel back on, buy about 5 of those before the job in case you do.
To remove the panel you need only unscrew the plastic sleeve over the door lock pull, and then remove four screws as shown in the video. If you have rear airbags, you will also need to remove a fifth screw behind the small plastic SRS badge. (Don't worry about the airbag going off; it won't -- unless someone drives into the door you are working on, but in that case you will have far bigger concerns.)
In the video, pay attention to how he removes the first upper (metal) clip near the door lock pull. (Use a small flashlight to see it more easily.) When that one is off, the panel lifts up, and off, more easily. Also, he unlatches a cable behind the window switch, once the panel is off, but on my car I was able to just detach the entire switch assembly.
**Make sure the window is closed when you start and once the panel is off, put a small block of wood, or some Styrofoam, pieces or even a towel in the bottom of the door frame to prevent the window from falling all the way down once the regulator is off. It probably won't happen, but better safe than sorry. ***
The only snags you will encounter are with the (new) regulator itself. If you buy an aftermarket part on eBay, or even from WorldPac, it is almost certain one of the four rivet holes will not align with the frame. If you try to use just three holes, the repair will eventually fail because the torque of the motor will twist the regulator frame and cause the cable to wind sideways across the pulley wheel, and eventually tangle and snap. (Don't ask how I know this.
)
Also, with aftermarket regulators, the tab the motor slides under may be the wrong shape and you will need to bend and grind it down to secure the motor. (Don't ask how I know that either.
) So spend the extra money on an M-B regulator that fits perfectly.
Finally, there is a lot of comment in the Google tutorials about difficulties in drilling out the rivets. That is because those people are doing it wrong -- using drill bits that are too small. I used a 1/4" drill bit and, with small side to side movements, each rivet came out in less than 20 to 30 seconds.
Watch the video in the link a few times, until you memorize the steps, and it will be an easy job -- less than an hour and a lot easier than it appears.
Quote:
Originally Posted by terky
I m abit afraid of dismantle the whole panel, but i think that's my only option.. right?
There are some tutorials at google but still hard..
How can i dismount the cable and replace it?
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