After you remove the piping to the injector you are left with a 15 mm fitting sticking out of the Injector Pump (IP). Remove this fitting and just under it is where you will find the spring (be careful not to lose it). Under the center of the spring is the valve. You can reach into the IP with a pair of needlenose and withdraw this part from the center of the hole. Do not take out anything else...
Now put the 15 mm fitting back in and attach your test tube (old injector line bent over 180 degrees and cutoff) and you're ready to go. The pictures of the test line are on the CD. I made mine up long enough that I could get a jar under it easily...
if the motor is about 30 degress before TDC on the compressions stroke of #1 you should get some fuel flow out of the pump without any pumping. At least i did on mine.
Now tie off the throttle at full throttle, disconnect the vacuum shutoff hose from the back of the IP. and then set your crank at whatever vaule is given for you motor. I think is probably 24 degrees before TDC on #1. You can check TDC on #1 by pulling the oil filler cap and making sure that neither of the front cams are engaging the rockers. They won't both point up but side to side as I remember indicating that they are not pressing down on the rocker thereby indicating that #1 is on the compression stroke.
One thing, before advancing to 24 degrees or whatever value is give try pumping the hand pump a few times and see if fuel spurts out of your tube.
Now loosen the IP mount bolts a little (3 on the front and one on a bracket in the rear) the rear one was designed by a sadist bye the way... The front ones can be reached with a universal on your 13 mm extension. The rear one by the grace of GOD...
Now while pumping hand pump on the IP you should be able to get fuel flowing in a steady stream by rotating the IP away from the engine. If this happens GREAT! Then while still pumping with the hand pump slowly rotate the IP towards the motor until you get down to only a drop per second dripping out of the tube.
That's the setting at begin of delivery.
Tighten the IP mount bolts and then just because, check it again... This time you can check by rotating the motor around two turns to the compression stroke on #1 again and then stop short of your setting of 24 at say 30. You should have a steady stream. Rotate the engine to your mark and it should slow or stop very near to your mark on the crank.
One other little thing. DO NOT rotate the engine backwards (CCW) in order to get on the mark. If you miss it go around two times again to the mark. Kind of important since the engine rotates CW and your timing will be off if you go backwards.
Somebody check me here to make sure I covered everything okay?
Good luck and let us know if you need more help...
