I really appreciated reading everybody's posts regarding their repairs when their serpentine belt idler pulley would break off the timing cover. After suffering the same fate, I've put this advice to use and purchased a used timing cover (part # 603-015-02-01) to replace my old cover (part # 603-015-00-01). I managed to disassemble everything over a few weekends with the engine in the car.

I have a few remaining questions that I'd like to ask for your help about:

1. I'm not planning to use black silicone RTV sealant, The Right Stuff, or Hylomar since others had reported leaks after using these. Instead, I'm going to order a 90g tube of Mercedes-Benz 002-989-45-20-M22 Clear RTV Sealing Compound to apply to the mating face of the timing cover as well as the vacuum pump. Should I apply this clear sealer also to the head gasket where I removed the 2-3 bolts on the top side of the timing cover? Should I apply it to the oil pan gasket where I backed out the oil pan bolts and carefully slipped off the old timing cover (please refer to the oil sump photo)? If not, should I just wipe these gaskets dry and then reassemble everything?

2. Should I use a blue or red threadlocking compound on all of the timing cover bolts, pulleys, and oil pan bolts when I reassemble everything?

3. How do you remove the dipstick from the old timing cover so I can attach it to the new one?

4. The topmost bolt on the water pump broke off when I was removing the water pump. The broken screw is sitting flush where it screwed in to the engine (please refer to red arrow in the water pump photo). I want to ask how I can get this bolt out or if you think the new water pump will still seal with 1 bolt missing when I put a new gasket and water pump on.

5. When I removed the power steering reservoir and pulley, I noticed that the pulley when attached has some slight play (0.5mm - 1mm) when I pull in and out on it. Is this normal?

Thanks for suggestions to any of these questions.

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