I found the fix and thought I'd post it here in case someone else has the problem. I always hate it when folks ask for help and many never come back to post that they fixed the problem and what the solution was. Anyhow, in case the OP still has the problem or someone else here is what I found:

1. I purchased a brand new trunk lamp switch button and replaced it as the vehicle kept showing the trunk as being open when it was not (red RED on center console trunk release button). It made no difference. Because the trunk lamp didn't work I was never able to play with the trunk switch button and watch the trunk lamp go on or off.

2. I looked at the trunk lamp bulb. It's is fine. I took a resistance measurement to make sure it was not "open". It had a small resistance which tells me that if it got 12V it would light up.

3. I measured the voltage going to the trunk lamp bulb. With the trunk open you get a reading of 0.01V which is not enough to light the bulb up. Oddly, when you push the trunk lamp switch button in to simulate a "closed trunk" the voltage actually goes up to 0.11V. You also get a reading of 0.11V when you pull the trunk lamp switch button out which is supposed to turn the lamp out.

4. Since I was having "electrical issues" with the trunk lamp I thought I'd also look at the rear seat dome light which didn't light up either when it was supposed to. I used the button in the overhead console in the front to try and turn it on but it never came on.

5. I removed the bulb for the rear seat dome light and inspected it. The bulb was fine and would light up if 12V were applied. I checked the continuity and resistance as I did the trunk bulb and got similar readings. With the volt meter on the rear dome light fixture I observed 0v when the dome light is supposed to be off and 2.3V when the dome light is supposed to be on. It takes 12V to light the bulb properly so this explains why the bulb never comes on.

6. Here's my biggest discovery...when the button for the rear dome light is push "on" I experienced the problem with trying to open up the trunk. Apparently, the dome light button had been on all this time but I wouldn't have known it because the rear dome light never lit up. So, with the rear dome light button turned off I was able to use the FOB remote to open the trunk at will regardless of if the doors were open or closed. However, with the dome light "on" I experience the trunk problem as previously described. One thing I should point out is that with the dome light off the center console switch still did not work, regardless.

7. Since I was able to verify the problem wasn't the trunk switch button and performed the diagnostic work above it allowed me to move on to the electrical issues. When you determine that you are having electrical issues the first step is to check the relays and fuses. I checked the fuses first.

I found the fuse box in the engine and also the one in the trunk under where the spare tire is stored. The engine fuse block didn't have a listing for a trunk light but it did for the rear dome light (only). Weird thing is they had the #9 fuse in the engine area listed along with the #2,#4 & #6 fuse in the trunk area as all being for the rear dome light. When I got to the #6 fuse which is a 5A fuse I noticed it was blown. I replaced it with one of the spares in the engine fuse block and voilą the rear dome light works!...AND the trunk light works AND the trunk opens at will with the key FOB! Interesting that you can leave the rear dome light on (now) and the trunk will open whereas when the fuse was blown leaving the dome light on prevented the trunk from opening with the key FOB.

The center console trunk release button still doesn't work but I'm going to assume it is worn out and needs to be replaced so I'll order a new one and hopefully I'll be good to go.

Anyhow, it was the blown #6 fuse in the trunk that was causing the rear dome light and trunk light issue which contributed to the trunk release problem. Weird but true.