Honestly, the plastic guide rails can be ignored if you want to save some time and energy. they might have big gouges in them, but there's plenty o meat there.
the tensioner rail though, thats a different beast. replace it if there is any slop in its motion or the running surface feels like the inside of gramma's oven that hasnt been cleaned since 1920. -it should be a bit soft, like it could absorb shock / impact.
Can't drop the chain in such a manner that it isnt retrievable. theres always a way to fix "fk'd" in this case.
as soon as it is free, weave a metal wire about 2 feet long through some of the links. -you're set.
timing device is annoying, but you cant really fk much up other than IP timing. (and maybe pulling the pins)
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you might feel at the bottom, but your willingness keeps you far above that. Just gotta learn your own way. and before all of us shadetree knowitalls... there were well-paid techs at MB who knew the same or better, at times. we are all in line.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nofish37
{sic} but wouldn't mind knowing the condition of the tensioner, guide rails & such. I know the timing device is a pita to remove because of the timing chain, but losing the routing of the chain or completely dropping it scares me a little.
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I feel I'm at the bottom of a long list of folks that have been there, done that.
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