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Originally Posted by SD Blue
Here is the section in the FSM that talks about the flange and nut. The diagram on page 306 shows it very well.
https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/program/Chassis/35-530.pdf
Pretty straight-forward of using an in/lb torque beam wrench and 30 mm, double-hex, deep socket to turn the assembled rear differential, axles and wheels. Measure the force needed to move the assembly and note.
Then set the brake to remove the locking nut and flange. Install the new flange and new locking nut. Torque in incremental steps until the friction torque, previously noted, is met. Then use a punch to peen the top of the locking nut.
I made the special holding wrench, shown at the first of the section, by using bar-stock and 3 bolts. Took all of 20 min. and I found it came in handy for rear wheel bearing replacement as well. |
Thank you, I can handle this operation. For now I'm just going to change the differential yoke and get try to work on getting the car on the road. In the future perhaps I will replace the ring and pinion gears with the SD's originals.
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There is not a little irony in the sizing of the driveline and final drive of the 380SE vs. the 300SD; the 300SD engine produces more torque than the US-spec 380, yet the 380 chassis was fitted with the larger driveline and final drive!
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The drive shaft on the SD appears much larger than that on the SE but the yokes on the SE are thicker and the flex disk are larger. The hole pattern are further apart on the SE flex disk.