Quote:
Originally Posted by spock505
Cool, thanks K2 removed which matches up with the blue one purchased (packet parts numbers are different as highlighted in previous posts).
Even though I pulled about 2.3 liters of ATF with vacuum pump another liter resides within the filter, keeps dripping until removed which is needed anyway to access K2 screws.
What I didn't allow for was the new ATF (changed at less than 1k) being somewhat old looking, almost brown similar worn ATF.
In addition the sump and filter had a grey silt coating of what I assume to be build up being released. Ordered 5 liters of ATF so not enough for a full flush which it needs, but I may take another liter out the TC and put 5 back, order new filter and ATF after say another 1k and replace.
Going to check vacuum system tomorrow, does the white cap on the modulator just pop off, mine seems to spin without doing anything, i.e finding a recess allowing removal.
Cheers.
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I can't remember off hand how much is left in a transmission after all the ATF has been drained but it is quite a bit.
It sounds like the whole valve body could do with being stripped down and cleaned. What you are experiencing is why all of those additives and the advice given by people to use them is bollocks: Stuff / muck / **** gets stuck in the valve body - it won't "flush" out!
The only way to get this muck out is to strip and clean.
Quote:
Originally Posted by spock505
Just thinking out aloud, is it worth removing the B1 valve whilst stripped down, ordering sufficient ATF and new filter.
My concern is the K1 and K2 replacements may not solve the 1 - 2 flare/hard-ish shift which might be down to B1?
Currently struggling to access MB.org web site (HATTENATOR 'how to') advertising overload.
At least this way i can get the correct part number for B1 which can be problematic from EPC.
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If I were you I'd be speaking with the friendly guy behind the parts counter at the local dealership...