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Originally Posted by dkveuro
Congrats...I just acquired two 85 300D sedans. Wow...whoopee for me !
...anyway, check the fuel tank outlet. Unscrew and make sure it's clear. Might need to replace the sealing O ring. Tank to steel line ? Clear?
Check fuel supply and bleed off from I/P ( Between I/P and engine.).
Disconnect boost limiter on manifold....single black wire. Bridge boost solenoid hoses next to brake booster......oh oh..Microwave just dinged...time for lunch.
later....
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I didn't understand most of this but appreciate the reply. If I bridge the boost solenoid hoses what will happen? Will disconnecting the boost limiter be dangerous in cases of overboost?
Quote:
Originally Posted by junqueyardjim
Well Dr. Diesel, that 4 speed will help a bit in acceleration, but 135hp, (a little more maybe), but remember, if you can get it to do zero to sixty in 15 seconds, you have about all there is. It never will be like greased lightening!
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I completely understand, its no race car, but I can't even get my 0-60 under 20 seconds. It seems as though there is no gain in performance throughout all RPM ranges of more than 50% throttle. All my power comes from the first 50% of putting the pedal to the floor in other words.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkr
If I were you, I would see if your 1985 had the trap oxidizer replaced under the recall if you don't already know. Nobody knows how the vacuum is "supposed to" go as they have all been extensively modified through repairs, so I'm not sure a photo would help. If you haven't already done a diesel purge, I would recommend that as well as replacing your large fuel filter and the air filter.
It would help to get more info on the symptoms...
Dkr.
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I'm going to just assume that it has been replaced because its had several committed owners and is above 250K miles probably. I'm having trouble finding a CA edition air filter...
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom
Most of the parts w/ disconnected hoses or connectors you show are part of the EGR system. It was a klutsy system, so may not even work right if you reconnect. I removed all those parts, including the EGR valve (used Rollguy's ~$15 block-off plates). You can find a schematic here that shows what parts are EGR, over half of the vacuum stuff.
What you do need is the "blue saucer" hooked up correctly (1st photo). The "TRA" port goes to your transmission modulator (driver's side, near shifter input). The blue saucer is a "buffer amplifier" that makes the shifting better. Indeed, I put one in my 1984 300D. It also gets input from intake manifold pressure (via "switch-over" switch on firewall), which I recall delays shifting under higher boost. All improvements. The main transmission signal is from the VCV mounted on top of the IP. It leaks vacuum to atm (black tube w/ filter open on cabin side), as the "throttle" is rotated, intent being to simulate intake manifold pressure in a gas engine. You can read detailed writeups in a search.
Your 1985 CA is different in several ways from earlier engines. Your tach signal comes off the transmission bell-housing (ignore "diagnostic" pickup on front of engine) and goes thru the EGR control box (so don't rip it out), as I recall does your AC clutch drive. Your IP has a "rack position sensor" that goes there too (also 1984). Your intake, exhaust, & turbo are different, w/ corresponding changes to starter and alternator (heat shields, clocking). If the original "trap oxidizer" wasn't replaced, I read you can still get the cat converter type replacement free from a dealer. Do so, or it can ruin the engine (reason for recall). Best to keep your frame-mounted air cleaner. Indeed, I put one in my 1984. I used silicone "turbo" 90 deg duct and cut the cleaner outlet shorter. The correct air filter is ~$45, but you can stack two $5 Wix filters instead. I posted the PN (for Toyota MR2 1978? or whatever I said).
Can't tell you about performance mod's, but there is a forum for that. Your transmission is also different (.4xx instead of .3xx earlier). It has slightly taller final gears (or maybe that is in the rear-end), which is the right direction for me but not for hot rodders.
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That is good to hear that it was mostly what I was hoping is that it was EGR related items. I guess my "blue saucer" is not relevant because I've got a 4 speed manual. So I guess I will never have a tach again because the pick up goes into the old automatic transmission? What all were you saying about the AC Clutch Drive? I don't have power at the AC Clutch if that makes a difference... I'd like to fix that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BWhitmore
I thought this car had been converted to a 4-speed manual transmission.
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You're correct