Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SL320
Randomly cutting wires is a bad idea. You will need a fair amount of those wires to crank / charge the battery / have gauges / distribute power to the cab.
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They were all for the engine. I checked everything I wanted was still working while I did it
Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SL320
That is the fuel debubbler I was speaking of in post 54, good idea to keep it since the tank does not have a sump to contain fuel slosh. The fuel filter should be a steel can with 2 lines mounted after the frame mounted fuel pump. Even better is to use the 1990 ish plastic tank I outlined in my post 52.
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Ok I'll keep it. I found the filter thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SL320
Don't weld the flywheel as there is too much a risk of it coming apart and if cast iron it is very difficult to weld. You need a flywheel from a 2.3 / 2.5 OHC "LIMA" 4 cylinder that was used in Rangers. It has a larger pattern. The late 90's and up 4 cyl is different and I'm not sure it will work.
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I thought it was a sketchy idea, glad you backed that up. So a tapered ring on the back of the flywheel isn't a good idea? The bearing that supports the transmission shaft so it'd be alot easier to just use the one I have. It's also only .02 smaller then the Mercedes flywheel and has the same pitch starter ring.
I made the emiss (emission) light go away by pulling the little controller thing out of the glove box. I also got the whole AC system out without disconnecting any lines so now I can bring it to a shop and get it drained. The little blower fan is gummed up but i'll leave that for later. I'm thinking of putting the oil cooler where the AC condenser was and running the lines forward and down so I can clear the radiator. I picked up a starter solenoid from the junkyard and I'll work on wiring the glow plug circuit.
Oh and good news, that mechanical pneumatic switch works under vacuum so I'll be ordering that. Where's the vacuum line go on the injection pump?