Quote:
Originally Posted by ykobayashi
Ok. I get one click. I'm pretty sure it is the solenoid clicking. Weak click. Not the solid "CLACK"! When it makes the connection and turns the car over. Just more of wimpy "click".
I've jumpers the screw terminals on the firewall to a pushbutton on the end of a wire in the car. I fused the circuit for safety and noticed I burned a 5A, 10A fuse while hitting the button. I put in a 25A and it works now. I started out with some wimpy 2A pushbutton a too and they didn't work. They didn't carry enough current. I finally put a 15A switch on that works. What I'm getting at is this thing carries a lot of current.
It is either malfunctioning (shorted) or it was designed to have a big draw. Funny doing it this way through the ignition switch but maybe that is why MB uses that beefy switch. All this is pointing at a bad NSS on my car. The fact it fires when jumpered gives me hopes I won't have to replace the starter which looks like an ordeal.
I'll get my new NSS in a few days. I really wanted to try to break and bypass the circuit at C146 but I cannot seem to find it. I've tried following the purple wire from he ignition switch but I get lost under all the wrapping. So that is why I poked the insulation at the ignition switch and found 12v when I put the key in the start position.
The harness down at the NSS is pretty sealed up and hard to poke into.
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A weak click indicates the solenoid is not getting full current to pull in all the way, so the centrifugal clutch did not engage and no power was applied to the starter motor. Could be a bad NSS or could be the wiring anywhere in that circuit, starting at the fuse to ground.
As I recall, the starter solenoid should not draw more than around 7 A. If you are blowing a 15 A fuse, there is a fault somewhere. That much current may be exceeding the rating of the ignition switch. You should try to sort that out