Quote:
Originally Posted by inzgary
Ok the problem actually was the driveway being uneven, with a full fuel tank. I pushed the car to a spot where the fuel tank was slightly lower and the leak stopped. Should I be setting the crank to a different position for a used engine? The odometer reads 200K miles now, although the speedometer is way off, I'll say its a 200K mile car.
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On the Emission sticker on mine it has the timing for the common method (that includes the drip timing method) as 24 degrees before top dead center plus or minus one degree.
If you are at 24 degrees coming up on the compression stroke and you are not getting your number of drips if there is not already a scribe or other line across the block to Fuel Injection Pump Flange I think it is a good I deal to put one there.
That is so you can retun the Fuel Injection Pump to where it started incase you rotate it too far.
You need to follow the directions concerning the Throttle Lever and the Vacuum Shutoof and loosen the rear bottom bracket and the 3 front flange Nuts.
This represents the way I do it because I am by myself when I do this sort of job.
The Fuel Injection Pump timing is ususally slightly late/retarded and needs to be advanced just a bit. To advance you would rotate the top of the Fuel Injectin Pump towards the Engine Block.
I remove the Fuel Injection Hard Lines because it is hard to rotate the Fuel Injection Pump tiny amounts against the tension of the lines.
I rotate the top of the Fuel Injection pump just a hair (as viewed at the scribe mark) towards the Engine Block then I snug down one or more of the Flange Nuts to keep the Fuel Injection Pump from rotating.
The I pump on the hand primer a lot so the fuel pressure is steady and count the drips.
If the drips are off I repeat what I did previously till I get the proper drips.
That works if you re re-setting the timing of the Fuel Injection Pump that is on a decent running Engine and the Fuel Injection Pump was had not been removed and re-installed.
2 things I believe people have trouble with doing the drip timing is they rotate the Fuel Injection Pump to much when it only needs a hair of movement. The next is if you don't keep the fuel pressure even the the number of drips you get is going to vary.
That is why I move the IP then snug the nuts the pump the hand primer and count the drips. Trying to rotate the Fuel Injection Pump and pump the Hand Primer does not work well for me as far as keeping the pressure even.
Anyway that is what is easiest to do with everything stock.
Where I worked we had a gravity feed that we hooked up and that kept the Fuel pressure even.
Some have used an Electric Fuel Supply Pump.
Both require you fabricate connections and so on and for the a person with one vehicle the timing does not need to be reset often to go to the trouble to make a setup.
Various timing methonds
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