Leave the exhaust manifolds attached to the head, just detach the egr pipe. Unbolt the intake but leave it in the car. Don't forget the two bolts in the brackets under the intake as well as the egr pipe mount in the rear by the coolant nipple. With all of those loose you can just pull the intake away from the head enough to pull the head without having to disassemble all the crap on the manifold.
Try not to break the plastic chain guide rail when you lift the head (or when you pull the pin for that matter). It wants to break but if you remain conscious of it while lifting you can avoid it.
Don't go crazy with sealer on the worm seal for the timing cover. Just a small dab in the corners. The more goop you use on it, the quicker it will leak.
If the head doesn't have to be machined, don't disassemble the cam and rocker towers. Those threads are iffy at best, and best left alone if just doing a quick gasket swap.
New head bolts are worth the money and cam gear bolts are mandatory. Also when I do these engines I use some of the black M/B sealer on the perimeter of the gasket on both sides. It adds years to the reoccurrence of external leaking.

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90 300TE 4-M
Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim
T04B cover .60 AR
Stage 3 turbine .63 AR
A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR
MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control
3" Exh, AEM W/B O2
Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys,
Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster.
3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start

90 300CE 104.980
Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression
197° intake cam w/20° advancer
Tuned CIS ECU
4° ignition advance
PCS TCM2000, built 722.6
600W networked suction fan
Sportline sway bars
V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff