Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom
I wonder about "never re-use race" comment. If the race looks good (still shiny), I just replace the cone (tapered rollers). It is much harder to replace the race and if not careful, the new one will later spin and ruin the hub (been there, 69 Dart). Most tapered bearings are sold as separate race and cone, which sort of implies they can be replaced separately, though it also allows more combinations of ID & OD. Some are packaged as a set, like the Timken SET3 & SET5 (National A3 & A5) used in my 1984 & 85 300D's (also old Chevy trucks).
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That is just wrong thinking..
Replace them in sets
grind the outside of the old race to use to install the new race evenly...
Yes.. the FSM shows using the dial indicator for a reason...
Also, some of our old Mercedes has one time use crush washers to use when setting the wheel bearing tightness.. get some extras if your car uses them because once you have gone past the proper distance.. as indicated with the dial indicator.. you have to take it off and put a new one on.