Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom
I wonder about "never re-use race" comment. If the race looks good (still shiny), I just replace the cone (tapered rollers). It is much harder to replace the race and if not careful, the new one will later spin and ruin the hub (been there, 69 Dart). Most tapered bearings are sold as separate race and cone, which sort of implies they can be replaced separately, though it also allows more combinations of ID & OD. Some are packaged as a set, like the Timken SET3 & SET5 (National A3 & A5) used in my 1984 & 85 300D's (also old Chevy trucks).
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Bill, thank you for the help.
That was my question: is Timken Set 5 correct, as on the manufacture website states an inner bearing diameter that is far in excess of the 22mm spindle diameter.
As for also being on Chevrolet trucks, been saying feel like am working on a truck when working on the Mercedes and sure enough, was more right than I thought.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulfiqar
shiny is not a measurement, the race wears down as a companion mate to the rollers (like chain and sprocket).
removing and installing races isnt that difficult specially if you loan out the race installer from autozone.
It can be punched out with a brass drift and you can also use your household oven to evenly warm up the hub before installing a cold race.
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Thank you for the help.
Not disagreeing, just want to understand. So is lack of bearing play in the race sufficient to determine a discrepancy in wear?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911
The manual calls for a procedure with a dial indicator to set the end paly. I did not use the dial indicator the first time and overheated the grease in mine and had to do the job over after removing the roasted grease.
Since the time I did the above when I had the had the Hub off of the Spindle I always adjusted it with a dial indicator and that has always worked 100% for me.
like a lot of people I had like 45+ years of previous experience just doing that by feel with no dial indicator on other vehicles I have owned since 1968 but that filed to work for me on the Mercedes.
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Thank you for the help.
Yes, I have the paper FSMs and have read the wheel bearing instructions. Life happened and unable to get the dial guage. Hoping someone local I can drive to and get them set correctly. Do you think one drive wipe the bearings out?
Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang
That is just wrong thinking..
Replace them in sets
grind the outside of the old race to use to install the new race evenly...
Yes.. the FSM shows using the dial indicator for a reason...
Also, some of our old Mercedes has one time use crush washers to use when setting the wheel bearing tightness.. get some extras if your car uses them because once you have gone past the proper distance.. as indicated with the dial indicator.. you have to take it off and put a new one on.
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Thank you for the help.
Good idea about using the old race to press in the new race, will be doing that on the inners which fit.
But in a tight situation, can used bearings in used races work long enough until the bread is available to replace? Is it Timken sets 3 and 5?
Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007
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TF, thank you for the help.
One can get a bun with their ground beef, just have to go to the right place and pay more.
So then what is the Timken correct bearing and race numbers please?