I would not fret on the chain, the guides are the critical mass object. I have seen plenty of 150k-300k junkyard cars that the upper, driver guide let go. Some even took out the valve cover I have seen. This allows the chain to skip a camshaft sprocket tooth (irrelevant of chain elongation) and bends the valves as the timing is so out.
If the cams are late due to chain elongation, just put in woodruff keys. They will still be late with a new chain, I can assure you of this as the lower sprockets are worn. I have yet to see one M116/7 dual row chain car where the chain failed in the yards. Really. Is it prudent? I guess, but you are not driving a single row chain 380.
The tensioner assembly does not just **** the bed, nor the tensioner rail as that rail is metal with that nylon cover. See above, the guides are the killer.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. 
'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k
Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.
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