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Old 04-23-2018, 12:11 PM
97 SL320 97 SL320 is offline
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As a side note to the OP. There might not be a problem with the hydraulic clutch. I've seen issues on various cars where the clutch disc material chunks off causing the clutch to drag. Also, some use a self adjusting clutch cover, the self adjusting pivot can wear causing incomplete release.

On to another post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Duke2.6 View Post
One of the elements that make for an "elegant design" in addition to simplicity, low cost, and reliability/durability is "maintainability". Slave cylinders are common replacement items. They rarely last the life of the clutch or transmission, even with frequent fluid changes (but that's not how mine failed as I explained in my previous post), so ease of replacement is important in my book since I keep cars a long time.
Modern concentric slave cylinders last just fine, just because your 28 year old MB had a slave failure does not mean that an 11 year old car is somehow "worse" .

More concerning is, based on prior posts, you have no clue how a concentric slave works but have somehow decided that it is inferior to most all other systems. What sort of day job do you have / had?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Duke2.6 View Post
Most hydraulic clutch release systems have many of the features you mentioned, but my award for "best design" is the mechanical linkage in my '63 Corvette - simple, low cost, low friction, durable/reliable, and in the event of a problem, easy to access for repair.
A mechanical " Z " bar linkage has lots of parts and is a mess in practice, please post a pic so others can see what it looks like.

" Z " bar linkages have:

Lots of parts that need made assembled.

Lots of friction points.

Lots of pivot points that wear causing a sloppy system.

Pedal height gets out of wack as motor mounts flex , body mounts flex , frame twists.

Needs frequent adjusting.


Concentric slave cylinders amount to a hollow disc brake caliper half, this consists of:

A casting with a bore , a seal , a release bearing , a bleeder screw and a place to attach the hose.

Install consists of 2 or so bolts holding the unit to the trans and snapping in a quick connect hydraulic line once the trans is installed.

They are self adjusting.

These easily last life of clutch and are changed during a clutch replacement.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Duke2.6 View Post
The worst is the cable in my Cosworth Vega. The OE routing forced it into an S-bend, which is a very bad idea. After having to replace it at about 30K miles I analyzed the problem and rerouted it in a smooth arc. That replacement is still there, but it needs to removed from the clutch pedal bracket and firewall every few year to run a graphite lubricant emulsified in a petroleum distillate carrier that evaporates (I use Lok-Eze) to reduce friction.

Duke
Had a better cable been used ( rather than what amounts to a parking cable ) the system would have been fine. Besides, the clutch cable was the least of this cars worries.
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