Quote:
Originally Posted by mark82
I tried to be pretty specific with my questions.
The issue is not can the plugs be upgraded, or how to do it. The issue is whether the early controller will work or work correctly with the new plugs and then if not, can the later controller be substituted and work correctly?
There is a reason I asked them; I have one parts seller that claims only the late model controller will work correctly with the late plugs (but not the early controller). Also, one parts seller implies that the old controller will not work with parallel plugs and he sells a silly push button work-around.
So my questions still stand...
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If the old system had a fuses in it what is the amperage of that stock fuse?
If the system had no fuse then the controller will likely not work because I believe there is a reed switch inside of it which when getting hot cuts off the voltage.
Some systems had a 50 amp fuse instead of th 80 amp one.
1976 is the year the multiple members have had issues with.
1976 Glow Plug Update but no voltage to the glow Plugs when key is turned on
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=181503&highlight=pencil+plug+relay+ground+wire+115
Part of the issue is the older models might have different makes of Glow Plug Controllers. So it would be handy to know what company made the stock relay. You might look at your favorite parts sellers sites and see if they show more then one Glow Plug Relay for your year and model.
People have used the newer Glow Plug Relays like the one on my 300D and run a seperate wire from each Plug to the Relay. Mercedes at one time sold all of the electrical connector parts. Of course you have a wiring issue with the rest of the connection.
Easiest would be to keep your original Relay (if it works) and run the positive wire that would normally go to the Glow Plugs to a Ford type Starter Solenoid (On Fords they are usually on the Fender Well or Fire Wall). You activate you relay which in tern activates the Starter Solenoid (that does not pull much amperage) and the Solenoid closes and connects the Glow Plugs to the Battery Voltage.
Note I did that on my Volvo Diesel.
In you case you would need to run the positive wire to activate the Starter Solenoid to one of the small terminals on the Starter Solenoid which in my case I used the S termina.
Because I used a seperate switch I had to run wire from the + side of the Starter Solenoid to the Switch and another wire from the switch back to the S termina.