The fuel hose is important to be DIESEL RATED else it will turn to soft mush in a few months .

Just be smart and buy the right stuff, the proper hose clamps are # 12 or 14, I prefer the #12's but they're snug to slide onto the hose .

The clear plastic primary screen (it's NOT a filter) can be removed and blown out backwards if it keeps clogging up . (BT, DT) .

Get some Biobor A.S.A.P. as the fungus is growing and spreading as you're reading this and the car is sitting quietly at the curb .

I hope you know to look in pawn and thrift shops for decent used tools, no need to go all out and buy $pendy Mechanic's kits, just buy a giid box and slowly fill it with the tools you need for each job at hand .

The valve adjust needs the special bent 14MM wrenches plus a 22MM socket and ratchet, 13MM socket and 6" extension, stepped typ feeler gauges, those usually remain unlosd at shops because no one knows what they are anymore so a good KD or Blue Point American made one can be $5 ~ $10 .

Make sure it has both .004" & .014" blades, not all have the .004" .

I helped some guys once in Long Beach, they said thank you by stealing a truck load of tools I happened to have there at that moment and I needed to get back to work Monday so I managed to fully kit out for $1,000 including a battered but still good (50 years later) Kennedy rollaway box on large casters .

Lots of old Craftsman, Japanese and even some Chinese tools now make up my kit, (Alltrade is good Chinese stuff) .

Either way you choose to go is good, I prefer to do my own works and have the tools on hand but you only need what you need .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better