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Old 04-15-2003, 06:46 PM
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dmorrison dmorrison is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Colleyville, Texas
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csnow

I looked at the hydraulic unit. It can only handle 1500 Lbs. And the compressed springs have more force than that. I;m afraid they would not be strong enough.

Thomaspin

Due to the opening in the springs as they are installed in the car. I was looking at making the thickness of the plate 3/8" thick.
would cut a groove in the plate to hold the spring. It could be a v groove or rounded. I would center the groove at 2" from center. Cut it 2/16" deep based on a 5/8th inch coil diameter.

The bolt would slip down through the spring perch hole and you would slid the plate over the bolt shaft to catch the plate on the bolt head. You have to prevent the plate from rotating. Sir tool does this by mlling the bolt head shape into the plate. See the bottom plate on the photo. You could do this on your machine.
As you look at the photo you can see that the plate grooves are much larger than I was considering. You could make the groove wider but I would not consider making it deeper. You'll effect the strenght of the plate structure.
If you could find stronger metal than plate steel, stainless would be better. stronger would be best. The strength shold be fine.
I wanted the grade 8 bolt for tread strength.
Roll pin
The hole in the bottom plate would be ever so slightly larger than the bolt shaft. The washer with roll pins could not be larger that the hole at the top of spring perch. That measurement in the 123 is 1 3/4 " So I figures 1 5/8 diameter. Once the bolt and washer engages the plate you need to hold it in the center of the plate, that is what the roll pins are for. The roll pins will also stop the washer/bolt assembly from rotating on the plate.
Having the mill/lathe unit you could build a washer with slots to match the bolt head. Just as Sir tool did. This would hold the plate against the bolt head. Or the washer could be welded to the bolt.
As you tighten the nut at the top of the spring perch to compress the coil spring. You don't want the plate/bolt assembly to rotate or it will screw the plate up the coils of the spring.
So the top washer should allow the nut to rotate, the grease idea, but the washer should remain stationary. Just now I realize you could weld a handle onto the top washer to hold the unit. One hand holds the washer handle and the other works the ratchet on the nut. Ideally the ratchet would be a box wrench rachet. Since in this design the bolt would be raising up through the washer/bolt assembly.

How strong a metal can you cut on your lathe/milling machine. That may determine what you would make the plate out of. As stated I would use a grade 8 bolt. I can give you the name of the company here that can make it. Its a $40 set up fee and probably a few bucks for the bolt stock. They can make it as long as you want, up tp 36" I think.
If you want me to email you a copy of the plans I made let me know. If I had your lathe/mill I would have made the tool.

Dave
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Request to members in Germany - Klann or SIR spring compressor-coil-soring-compressor-plates.jpg  
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Last edited by dmorrison; 04-15-2003 at 07:35 PM.
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