|
I did not read all of the posts so some of this could be repeats. My 82 Volvo Diesel; the Engine is made by VW and is sort of s 6 cylinder VW Rabbit Engine.
On the Volvo Version you need to remove the Cranshaft Damper to remove the shielding to change the Timing Belt due to the lower part of the shield. Someone who has owned a VW Rabbit diesel will have say if that is so or not on the Rabbit.
To adjust the Valve clearance you need a Tool to push down the Tappet and another to grab onto a shim plate to pry it out. You change the clearance by using different thicknesses of plates.
There is tools for setting the timing of the Camshaft and Fuel Injection Pump. A plate for the Camshaft and a plug that goes into the Fuel Injection Pump Drive Gear.
There is an additional Tool for setting the timing that screws into Fuel Injection Pump and uses a dial indicator to set the begin of injection.
While the Rotary Distrubator type Fuel Injection Pump is tougher then the Stanadyne/Roosamaster types used on the GM and Ford Diesels. The Drive End of the Fuel Injection Pump has a Lip Seal on it.
On my Volvo I had to change that Lip Seal X3 since 1992. Apparenlty the chemical changes in Diesel Fuel shortend the life of the seals.
You need to pull of the dive gear and the Fuel Injection Pump. However, you can remove the seal with out taking the Fuel Injection Pump apart as there is a way to grind on a cheap screwdriver to make a tool to pop out the seal.
However, the last seal that leaked was a viton seal and the lip material cracked all they way around. Making me suspect there was another issue.
Which for DIY brings up the weak point in the design of the Fuel Injection Pump design. The drive shaft of the IP is supported on 2 Bushings. If the bushings are worn out your seal is going to leak.
Unfotunately the Bushings are undersized and supposed to be reamed or machined to the proper size and the clearance is small. To change the Bushings the whole Fuel Injection Pump has to carefully taken apart (and of course later reassembled).
When I was going to do mine I researched what others had done on the VW Forums bought adjustable reamers and new bushings (which are cheap).
Then I realized the only way it was going to work is if I made something to guide the Reamer and at that point I chicked out.
Another issue is that the change in the chemical make up of the Diesel has caused issues with the parts that ride on the Aluminum housing. The Ford And GM Diesls that use rotary pumps have a similar issue. They bot have parts that ride on the housing to advance the timing and the housings wear out faster then they did woth the older diesel fuel.
I bought a Use VW Rabbit Fuel Injection Pump and I used the Housing of that as mine was worn.
For the bushings I carefull pressed out the bushings from the 2 housings and used the 2 best bushings of the 4 use them.
Like the newer Mercedes diesels with aluminum cylinder heads they crack and a certain amount of cracking is considered normal.
I have only driven one VW Rabbit Diesel and it was gutless as far as acceleration and freeway speeds.
The VW Rabbit Diesls are were made in Barzil and parts come from there.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
|