Quote:
Originally Posted by MB140300SD
This sticking regulator valve sounds like it could be the problem to me. While watching the heater core and evap temps on the display the all seem to read about the same temp, and today its about 78 or so out and the pressure would drop to about 6 bar while cruising and the evap/heater core temps would show about 67-68, so it appears it is doing a little bit of cooling, but just not much. As soon as I would downshift it to pass or something like that, pressure would rise up to 12-14 bar and evap temp drop to 37 or so.
Is the fix for this a replacement compressor or is the valve a separate part that can be replaced?
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Best would be to first put a manifold set on the lines and see the system running pressures - then the temperatures would make sense.
do you have equal temperatures on all 4 vents on the dashboard? - 2 warm and 2 cold means you are seriously low on refrigerant charge in this car (the evaporator shroud is split right in the middle for left and right, a partial working evap works half way only)
the fix for the valve is to clean the system out and start fresh - but in experience if your original compressor is a denso 7SB16C with the big throttling valve, the compressor is a trash design and needs to be thrown into scrap. The corrected design is numbered as 7SBU16C - the bad one has unsupported reed valves on one quadrant of the plate which cause them to fracture. The updated one doesnt have this issue.
All the replacement compressors you will buy (new) are the updated design, in rebuilt you may get an old style - I have used the UAC and 4 seasons ones on these and on BMWs (similar) and all are working perfectly.