Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximan1
Are you measuring voltage across the 2 terminals at the door connection? Those should both be 12v hot when the key is on, so measuring across those two will net you a 0v reading. You should ground out your voltmeter to a known ground, like the door check strap or the door latch.
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OP should pull up the wiring diagram to better understand it. But what you say is what I also recall. (
Here is link to one for my 85 300D)
On my car, the problem was that an internal thermal fuse in the motor had blown. Should be able to test by feeding 12v to motor directly. It is a special fuse that is not easily replaced. But can be. A junkyard motor may be easier! There are threads here about those fuses and the motors.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/318503-repair-your-failed-w124-window-regulator-motor-maybe-others-too.html
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2956367-post16.html
__________________
Graham
85 300D
,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5