View Single Post
  #13  
Old 11-26-2018, 02:07 AM
Keystonecarry Keystonecarry is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SL320 View Post
Where are you picking up the oil pressure signal? My concern that with an altered oil filter housing, you don't have any oil going to the bearings. RE: The first motor burned down a rod bearing and locked up at idle. The only time a bearing grabs the crank is when there isn't oil flow.



Glow plug operation won't affect cranking speed.



You have a global problem, even if you lost 2 cylinders the engine should still run.

How about putting the original injection pump back and trying?

What are you using for a transmission?

Original motor locked up due to crap luck. It looks like some metal came from inside the motor and got into the bearing. It didnt spin the bearing, just ground the motor to a halt.

I know it has gobs of oil pressure. A line had a pin hole on the return side of the filter housing and it sprayed oil like mad across the room. That is the line headed into the block after the filter. All is well there.

So for tonight what I did was pull the injectors. What I found was lots of gunk in the prechambers. I cleaned that all up and cycled the motor with the injectors out. I installed new heat shields and torqued the injectors down to spec. Then I moved to the timing relationship of the cam to the crank. I took time and checked twice. This motor is actually 5 degrees off due to chain stretch. That being said I will be purchasing an offset key. I still don’t think this would cause it to not crank or start.

After the timing I checked every valve. Here is where it got interesting. Every valve was notably out of spec. I took about an hour and adjusted all the valves to spec. I spun it over by hand and everything feels great.

I then adjusted the motor to 22 degrees BTDC, pulled the pump, retired the pump to the notch in the sprocket and reinstalled. I primed the pump and all the lines with my tank lift pump and began my drip test. I drip tested and adjusted the pump slightly towards the block to get 1 drip per second.

I then bled the injector lines at the injectors, cranked it till they spit fuel, tightened them, hit the glow plugs and gave it a crank. The motor ALMOST fired immediately. I smelled smoke, looked at my starter and the wires from the solenoid to the starter were melted. I pulled it all apart, greased and cleaned the entire starter components but its fried. I just ordered a 250 ft/lb starter so I will give it a whirl once that shows up.

Long story short, The pump is 100% timed correctly now, the valves are in spec, and the prechambers are squeaky clean. I expect that it will fire once I get that new starter.

Side note this is the second Autozone starter I have burned up only shortly after buying them.
Reply With Quote