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Old 11-30-2018, 01:16 PM
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87tdwagen 87tdwagen is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Sunny Ft. Lauderdale
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Thanks for the suggestions, keep them coming.

I have tested the door switch and also have 4 spares that are known, all perform the same way, all set functions work with the exception of fore/aft.

I have also applied 12v and Grnd directly to the connector at the back of the door switch pins 4&6 of the 6 prong plug which are for the fore/aft motor and no movement.

As mentioned earlier, even though the tilt function works and the seat is as far up as it will go, the plug connectors for the motor pack under the seat are retained inside a plastic shelf/box with the cables looped under the front side, this means I cannot disconnect these connectors to test the motor or conductivity between the door switch and motor unless I can get this shelf out from under the seat or remove the seat to access.

I'm assuming at this point that I either have a broken connection between the switch and the motor or the motor itself is bad. As much as I hate to have to cut into the cables to test continuity (prefer to do at connectors) I may not have any other choice.

I am willing to remove the seat in favor of cutting into the harnesses, if there is some way to separate the seat from the track assembly, that can be done in this case. I know that the seat frame (box spring) is bolted to the track assembly via 6 screws, but there is no way I can do this without being able to more the seat fore/aft either electrically or manually due to having to align the holes in the frame rail with the screw heads 1 par at a time, x 3 times.

Any ideas of how to remove that plastic shelf containing the motor to harness connectors from under the seat?

Any ideas on how to separate the seat from the track assembly with no fore/aft movement?

Lastly, is there any way to detach the fore/aft motor from the track to gain manual control over the fore/aft movement, allowing the seat to free wheel so to speak?

Thanks again
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