Best way to remove the window is to lift the lip on the inside and roll it over the metal flange. The reverse of putting it in. If it won't roll, due to stiffness and age, cut it off, or cut completely through the gasket. You may have to do that anyway if someone glued the seal in. Some cars will pose problems here -- the W108 rear trim completely covers the rubber, no way to cut through, I'll probably have to cut the retaining lip off from the inside.

What you DON'T want to do is remove the trim first! You will only bend it all up and get frustrated, and it falls out when the window is out (its also a devil to get installed at the corners on the new gasket, too!). Pull the window and seal with the trim in place, then flex the gasket and remove the trim. It's perfectly all right to cut the old gasket off once it's out. You will also need to remove any crud on the glass.

You must pull the base trim -- it clips on to the body on the W115, W108, and I think the W123/W126 chassis, but I've no personal experience with the last two.

The MB sealant is a new thing, wasn't used at the factory. I've seen some caulk type material in the corners on my brother's 75 300D, but it could have been put there post factory, the front windsheild was an aftermarket. I am quite sure the black crap the typical auto glass place uses is NOT the correct material, ditto for any RTV type sealant. The gasket takes a week or so to settle in and seal all the way around, any sealant the hardens sooner will cause leaks.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!