Boy, talking about opening a can of worms.
First
The job was a pain while trying to LEARN how to do it. The lines are 23 years old. I replaced them because I was there and figured I would do it so I don't have to worry about the seepage that the line was doing. That black oil sure does make a mess, as you all know.
Second
If I were to replace them again I would remove the motor mount arm as I did. It was not that difficult to do once I decided to do it. Sometimes the job goes easier if you take the things off the car that are in the way instead of trying to figure out how to do it without removing everthing. You can actually spend less total time doing it the right way instead of trying to figure out how to get around it.
I brought the hoses down to Kims Hoses in Ft. Worth. They charged me $34 to repair both hoses. A lot cheaper then Mercedes and Fastlane($90). Will they last 23 years as the OEM's did, who knows!!
Third
I would be a little concerned about using flexible hose for the entire setup. The metal hoses are designed to route in a particular way and I would be concerned with the hose touching the block, getting hot and leaking.
Forth
AN fittings. Yes they are aircraft designed and strong.
As a Captain for Amercian Airlines, The only engine shutdowns I have done are for oil lines breaking. We lost all our oil and had to shut one down, twice. I have never shut down my Mercedes for a broken oil line!!!!!!!
Fifth
Consider a C check in the avation industry. After so many hours of flying we completely rebuild the aircraft. Not just check it. It is completely taken apart, gutted. Everything that can be removed is removed rebuilt or replaced. If you did that to your Mercedes every 5 years think how nice the car would be. Thats what we do in the aviation buisness. So when you get on an aircraft that is 20 years old. Realize that it has been rebuilt, or restored about 4-5 times depending on how much the Airline flys the Aircraft each day.
Sixth
If I were doing the job again. I would
Jack the car up and place it on stands.
Remove the fuel line to the IP with the inline filter
Remove the cigar fuel line.
Disconnect some of the vacuum lines to get them out of the way.
(you always have to move the vacuum hoses out of the way in the diesel, even if your changing a tire you probably have to move the vacuum hoses *G*)
Remove the windshield washer tank
Place a jack with a wooden block under the oil pan
Release the engine mount and shock. And the throttle arm ( See thomaspins web site on engine mount replacement
(
http://www.pindelski.com/ )
Jack the engine up
Unbolt and remove the engine mount arm ( only 4 bolts and can be done from above). Disconnect the power steering line to remove the mount, then screw it back on to stop the fluid from dripping.
Unbolt the oil cooling lines, including the 2 mounting supports, and allow them to drain. ( you could do this first to allow time for them to drain) Then tape them shut to stop the dripping mess
Lift the lines up from the top. They will come right out. Very little manuevering required now.
Take them down to Kims to have them rebuilt, which may be difficult for those who don't live in the DFW area *G*
Reinstall in the oposite order, The inside or upper hose first.
Dave