Quote:
Originally Posted by Shern
Yep, I reflowed that some time ago and definitely helped. The classic ground wire to the chassis did nothing to stop my bouncing gauges. It was soldering the wire to the shell that finally did the trick... unfortunately it also introduced some new, erratic behavior. Will give reattaching the spool a look in the morning and report back.
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Just wanated to add my anecdote.
My 1979 300D had a bout of bouncing temp gauge when it reached 150F.
A parts schematic I had from "Performance parts" shows a "thermal vacuum valve" for certain models located on the passenger side of engine block.
Curiously, this bouncing gauge of mine prefaced my door locks beginning to fail.
Then my engine would not shut off periodically.
I had to block off the door lock vacuum lines at the firewall and coincidentally, the temp gauge became steady over a period of 3 days.
I had my mechanic, David Pham, repair the entire vacuum system.
Door locks work, engine shuts off and yes, the temp gauge works fine.
No bouncing.
So I did not bother to check the ground solder point.
(Yes that point does crack, as my spare temp gauge displays the fine crack as the previous photo shows.)
So, perhaps a vac problem can contribute to the temp gauge funkiness via the thermo vacuum valve inefficiency. (?)
__________________
1979 300D 220 K miles
1995 C280 109 K miles
1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD
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1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents)
*SOLD.
SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego)
1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD