View Single Post
  #3  
Old 07-26-2019, 07:43 AM
97 SL320 97 SL320 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 7,534
Lets break this down:

Quote:
Originally Posted by l_turn9 View Post
Hello, Bought this car last year without enough due diligence and now I'm paying the price. The AT shifted buttery smooth until it stopped up-shifting out of 1st.
Given the car was working at time of purchase and did so for a decent amount of time, I doubt any pre purchase inspection would have uncovered anything. It is a 13 year old car after all. Also, actual limp mode on a 722.6 is 2nd gear however you could actually be starting out in 1st. .
Quote:
Originally Posted by l_turn9 View Post
The indicator lights that show when it is in Sport or Normal mode are blank when the shifting stops working.
The shifter on these cars is an electronic device that communicates with the transmission controller, you _NEED_ a scan tool to look at live data and codes. The shifter might be commanding the trans to shift in manual mode and a scan tool will show requested gear / position of the shifter. I'm also wondering if , in normal operation , when the shifter is placed in manual mode the Sport or Normal lights go out. Try a manual shift mode when everything is working properly or when the problem occurrs.


Quote:
Originally Posted by l_turn9 View Post
I had bought an expensive battery to move it around while I did the t'shooting and repairs. It's an inexpensive battery which drains after 3 or 4 days if we don't start it or charge it frequently. I was wondering if installing the correct battery would fix the shifting problem?
Battery size isn't a problem if it goes down after 3 - 4 days, a larger battery might only get you another day and won't solve the problem. You could run the car on a lawn tractor sized battery and once the engine was running , not have a problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by l_turn9 View Post
The car really comes alive electronically when I charge the battery for a couple of days and everything seems to work: Navigation, Cruise Control, and all the other electronic goodies which don't usually work. But all the electronics drain the battery (too small) and we lose all that stuff.
You really need a scan tool and to check voltage of the charging system. Given all of these problems are occurring there is a common failure point. I've seen alternators have a shorted diode cause battery drain , apply electrical noise to the system that causes all sorts of problems.

Above all, diagnose and don't randomly throw parts at the car.


Quote:
Originally Posted by l_turn9 View Post
I wasn't making the connection between the amount of charge and the AT's functioning until recently.

Any ideas if I might be right?
TIA,
Larry
2006 MB E350 AWD
If the alternator is working properly and the engine running, a drained battery will recharge and the car operate properly while it is being charged.
Reply With Quote