Thanks for the reply, Barry.

I had the whole front suspension apart for refresh (tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings) and the car has been on stands for a year or so. (Third project car blues.) Before it was raised there were no severe brake issues that we noticed.
Since I was doing the bearings anyway I got new rotors. New rotors+new pads are a tight fit and when pushing back the caliper it was was not wanting to retract even with excessive force.
So I was at a "rebuild or replace" moment with the caliper and they are cheap enough that it was worth my time to replace. Got the new one on just fine, mounted and everything, then it wouldn't bleed. The line also didn't drip when swapping calipers, which was suspect, but I had the cap on at the time and hoped it was just really good vacuum effect (foolish, but such is the folly of a man on a garage floor.) I can see that the new bleeder is clear through (confirmed by dropping it in a bottle of brake fluid and sucking through it with the vacuum tool.) And I am trusting that the new caliper is not clogged, just full of air.

Now I have new lines waiting to go on. I see that there is no allowance for rotation on either fitting of the hose. So do you spin the line on at the body (and tighten it there, with wrench), then spin the caliper around to fasten the hose to that side (finishing with a wrench to tighten of course)?