Well I figured it out. I started going after the map sensor since it was the only thing not checking good. So I ran the vehicle until it stalled again and unplugged the ECU and check pins 8 and 10 and I had 0 ohms again. I unplug the map sensor and plugged it back in and there was still 0 ohms and the vehicle would not start. So I removed the map sensor and tested the connector directly and it was at 0 ohms and then all of a sudden started showing continuity but it was very glitchy. Finally after 10 minutes or so it calmed down to 390 ohms. I checked the vacuum when it was out of the vehicle and it is actually fine. It held vacuum for over 30 seconds and never dropped. I must not have been getting a good connection with my vacuum line when it was in the vehicle. so when it came back to the correct ohms I put it back in the vehicle and it fired right up again. I let it run until it stalled out and would not start and it was at 0 ohms again. I did this two times just to confirm that the ECU must need to receive a signal from both of the coils in the map sensor in order to fire the injectors. Looks like I am going to be put in a map sensor in the vehicle.