Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Reiner
The great installation advantage of the annular CV-joint axles is that they can be separated.
The inboard stub axles are first installed into the center section (diff), the end play checked and corrected if necessary, the rear cover reinstalled, the mount re-attached to the chassis, and the center section re-filled with lube.
The outboard sections (with both CV-joints) are then installed in the wheel hubs, and the inboard joints bolted to the stub axles.
With one-piece axles they must be compressed ~ 3" (or more) to clear the splines for removal or re-installation.
With two-piece axles they need be compressed less than 1" for R&R.
|
Thanks Frank. Installing stubs first is what I 'thought' should be done, and is why I asked. It seems quite a number of DIYers haven't done that and perhaps that is why the bolts come loose? The manufacturer perhaps assumes they will be taken apart for installation, so doesn't torque them or apply Loctite at factory?
Another question comes to mind. Original boots lasted 30 years, but it seems aftermarket ones may start cracking after 5 or so years. Seeing it is relatively easy to change boots on the annular axles, it would be nice if the OE boots would fit. Maybe that is too much to ask for
Has anyone compared the diameters of the Chinese (GSP in my case) with those of the OE homokinetic or Annular axles?
__________________
Graham
85 300D
,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5