Most often I've read 110 degrees as the target for trigger points, multiple sources, so I used that as a basis. Once I rechecked and fixed my one point that was only closing for 60 degrees, and somewhat randomly at that, the car seems to run very well - my Trigger points are now in a range of 115 - 122 degrees, as opposed to the 150 - 155 where they started. I have a few tips to share as well for any future adjusters out there, to perhaps avoid my initial mistake:


1) Always fully install the trigger points, with both attachment screws, before every test, just like you would if you were installing back into the car. I found even the difference between hand-tight, and "installation" tight on the two screws was enough to change the reported degrees...so yes its annoying, but 100% necessary.



2) Understand that a change to one set of points may cause a small change on another set. I found several instances where I'd see even up to a 5 degree shift after making a change on an entirely different point set. Each of the four points are connected, so it makes sense. I didn't always note a change, but sometimes.



3) Double check all points after you set (and are satisfied with) the adjustment on any single point. This way you can identify any relationships between changes made to one point, and another.



4) Test by rotating the rotor in the proper direction of travel - i.e. the direction the distributor rotates when installed (clockwise). I am not 100% sure if this actually matters, but my results seemed more consistent. You can turn the rotor back and forth of course, but test from the close point clockwise, not the reopen point anticlockwise (backwards)



5) Once you have your points set, do a final test of all four, and do not remove the points again. If you do, retest. The reason here is that after near 50 years, the engagement and position of the trigger point "drawer" with the the screws tightened, isn't as precise as it used to be. Mine has a little slop frankly - 1/16 that way, or 1/16 this way is possible, and every bit changes the engagement of the points and the distributor shaft. So install the way you want them, ready to back into the car, then do a final check...and leave them alone if the numbers are right. If you plan to add grease or whatever, do all that first.



6) Sometimes, you'll adjust the points and get no reading at all. This means you've adjusted (bent) the contact to the point where there is insufficient contact left with the points to connect. ...Basically, you've gone too far. You may find you can't get to the magic 110 degrees (I couldn't) so don't shoot for perfection, but rather an improvement that is relatively consistent.



7) Finally, when making the adjustments, its often an exercise in tiny tweaks, that you are not even sure made any difference. Often times I honestly couldn't see a difference, I just did a firm "tweak" that essentially looked the exact same, BUT....even the smallest change can make a big difference in degrees. Use your test to see where you are, not your eyes.



FYI - My highly technical degree wheel was made from the plastic lid of a peanut can. My distributor holder was....the rest of the peanut can. My pointer was a safety pin....not exactly rocket science.







Good Luck.