That was pretty much the issue -- though I did not see it myself.
Common sense prevailed and rather than spend any more time under the car in hundred-degree heat, I took it to the mechanic's to have them free the bolt, and then just insert the new mount while they were at it. Had that bolt not been a show-stopper, I would have completed the trans mount and engine mounts in about an hour. It's incredible that shops estimate 8 or more hours to do the same.
I am surprised at how important engine/transmission geometry is to the car's proper performance. The old mount had collapsed; the new one raised the transmission by an inch or two, and the change in vehicle performance was remarkable.
Throttle response is significantly improved: Depress the accelerator and the car takes off, with none of the slight lag I noticed in the past year or so. Passing on the highway is effortless. In Sport Mode, 1st to 2nd gear upshifts on hard acceleration from standing starts happen by 4500rpm vs the previous 6000rpm. Average fuel economy in mixed city/highway driving is back to 22-23mpg, after falling to 18-19mpg. Ride feels smoother. And transmission-related vibration is gone.
Another vibration reduction came after an oil change yesterday. I typically use LiquiMoly 2332 5W40 but forgot to order it, so picked up some Mobil One 0W40. There is a noticeable difference in the car's sound and feel -- not profound but noticeably smoother and quieter, due to the lighter oil.
Another source of vibration will hang around for a while: New axles. Apparently there is a breaking-in period during which vibrations will be felt in Park; Drive (when stopped at a light); Reverse; and on acceleration from stop. Mechanic says to give it 2000 to 3000 miles to work itself out.
A week and a half ago, when I had the axles installed, the vibrations were very strong, especially on acceleration from stop; Reverse (with brakes on); and Drive (with brakes on). They were nonexistent in Neutral or when the car is moving. Since then, I have noticed a significant reduction in vibration so I believe the mechanic is correct, and all vibrations should be gone soon enough.
I have read posts by people who installed new axles, felt the vibrations, then went back to their old ones (with reboots) because of that. What they should have done, however, is patiently ride out the break-in period -- after all, putting new axles into an old(er) car with different material tolerances will not yield perfect results until the new parts start to wear a bit. (And my experience with the trans mounts demonstrates how critical small tolerances are in this car.)
Finally, the last vibration source (when the car is moving) is my front tires -- Yokohamas get "thumpy" as they age and I won't have optimal smoothness until they are replaced.
Quote:
Originally Posted by URO Parts Support
Looks like the captured nut for the red bolt is inside a small formed steel hanger (top center of below photo), and the bolt needs to come out so you can remove the crossmember from the body and trans mount bracket. If the nut spins, maybe you can jam something between the nut and the side of the hanger to hold it in place well enough to loosen the bolt.
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