Quote:
Originally Posted by imgolden
Hi all,
I am solving a few different problems on my 300D, your help is very much appreciated.
-I need new outer tierod ends. I see they are available in left or right-hand threaded. I assume I purchase one of each?
-I need lower control arm bushings. I read somewhere that W126 bushings are compatible and easier to install, is that true. Also, what else should be replaced when doing this job?
-My brake warning light, parking brake, and low-volts light all stay on when started unless I tap the gas or pull the parking brake. Additionally, under a heavy load (lights, radio, blower), the battery reads 12.5v, under no load it reads 13.6v - is this a bad voltage regulator?
-My #4 cylinder injector hardline keeps filling with air. No fuel leaks, but after the car sits I have to bleed the line for a few seconds and it runs better. I assume I need to replace the line? I inspected it and I couldn't see any cracking, but, it's probably small.
Thanks very much!
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http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/380871-w123-lower-control-arm-bushings-options.html
No one has posted a thread I can remember where one fuel injection hard line gets filled with air.
Your alternator issue is not as common as it simply not charging.
Loose alternator belts can cause the symptoms you posted for the alternator.
The wattage of the charging indicator bulb makes a difference because it excites the alternator to charge. Some sources I have read say 2 watts some 3 watts.
remove and clean the contact areas of your ground cables and of course the battery posts. The Engine to Chassis ground is on the left side under the car.
The Brushes are built into the voltage regulator but can be changed. If they are 2mm or less the brushes are worn out. Also when the voltage regulator is out look inside at the slip ring and see if it is badly worn.
One side of the voltage regulator is grounded to alternator's housing that has to be corrosion free and inside with the voltage regulator out there is a metal fingers that also contacts the regulator. See the fingers in the attached picture.
ALTERNATOR DIODE check with volt meter
With your meter across the battery, on Volts DC, you should read 12.5 - 14VDC
If not, set your meter to Volts AC and you should have a reading of ~100mVAC.
If the VAC is too high, then look for a rectifying diode failure. If VAC is OK but the VDC is not correct, then the problem is with the voltage regulator.
See post 20
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/332195-1980-300td-alternator-diagnosis-s-2.html#post3097790