Diseasel300:
Thanks for the recommendation, I'll do the acetone as I have that and a desiccant filter for my compressor, so I can skip the nitrogen for now.

I'm planning on changing the compressor, barrier hoses, expansion valve and lastly the drier. In looking over the components, The evaporator should be flush-able at the expansion valve connection as well as the hard lines using some extra tubing for the flush. Can I do the condenser in-place? with the drier and barrier hose removed? Also does the direction of the flush need to be in the same direction as refrigerant flow? For the condenser and evap specifically?

Sugar Bear and resago2000:

Still haven't decided on the final refrigerant yet. It had been converted to R134a prior, but that was marginal at best in a wagon. I have some NOS Autofrost R12 drop-in in stock that I had used in the past on other R12 cars with good results, so I'm likely going that route. The performance is nearly the same as R12 and would save me a new condenser, depending of course if that check out, leak free and the flush doesn't produce anything of concern.

Speaking of flushing and ordering parts ect. Do any of you see any concern in my drawing the system into vacuum for leak testing purposes (after evac of course). Do I run any negative risks in drawing the system now in it's current state? moving crud etc.

I would like to know if anything else is leaking before charging after all the work. My sniffer has not detected any leaks, nor can I see UV dye traces around any of the components nor thru the center vent, although that's the extent of access I have for the evaporator.

Thanks for your great advice

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)