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Old 03-17-2021, 03:32 PM
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Cairo1966_W110 Cairo1966_W110 is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Cairo
Posts: 23
Thanks everyone for the tips, the job is now completed and I thought I would update and post some photos of my experience.

I started with the passenger side, loosened the bolts, nothing stripped, jacked up the engine from under the oil pan, old mount came out very easy, new one in, new bolts, and lowered, done in 20 min. The bolt holes for the 2x 8mm hex head bolts which hold the complete mount to the subframe are threaded into the subframe, so they go in really easy (that was my original question). The bolts take a 6mm drive and I used ones that are 12 mm long. Those are the only parts I didn't get original.

Drivers side was order of magnitude more complicated, it is also harder to reach. Plus, it was totally collapsed. The old one came out perfectly fine, and I am sure when I looked it was lined up, so I thought the new one will go in easy. However, when I came back with the new one to install, the engine support arm was about 1.5 cm mis-aligned. I am not sure if that happened because my "helper" leaned his full body weight on the fender or if it was because it was collapsed or exactly why this happened. Like one poster said above, this is a disaster. I also may have also caught the jack on the subframe as well as the oil pan. Front wheels were chocked with bricks, so I do not think the whole car shifted. Anyhow, to get it aligned I used another jack on the passenger side of the subframe and longer bolts, and I was somehow able to force it to align, and then once in correct position swapped out the bolts for the correct length one by one. However, I missed the "cover disk" (12 in the workshop diagram above), as you can see in the photos, drivers side all the rubber is visible of the mount. I didn't want to go back through the process, so I left it. I am not sure if it has any structural value, or is handy to keep fluids off the mount?

I can say that replacing these mounts has the biggest effect on drive feel. I had heard how much of an effect it would make, but I was really shocked. No vibrations, I think better acceleration, more smoothness overall; like a new car. Best of all, previously, the car wouldn't stay in 4th gear for long, she would pop out into neutral very often. Only on a long downhill stretch basically idling along, would we be able to cruise in 4th for any period of time. That problem is also gone, she hasn't popped out since the new mounts went in. So I guess the very collapsed motor mount was putting too much sideways pressure (or not enough) on the transmission to cause some imbalance. Any how, we are back to cruising in the fast lane and made several trips to the Red Sea about 130km from home.

PS. Didn't do the central mount on the transmission, it look's in good shape. Although I will get around to dismantling and checking it eventually.

Thanks again to everyone for their advice and comments....
Attached Thumbnails
W110 Motor Mounts (OM615.940 Engine) - Remove Subframe?-parts-required.jpg   W110 Motor Mounts (OM615.940 Engine) - Remove Subframe?-drivers-side-mm-installed.jpg   W110 Motor Mounts (OM615.940 Engine) - Remove Subframe?-passenger-side-mm-installed.jpg   W110 Motor Mounts (OM615.940 Engine) - Remove Subframe?-driver-side-collapsed-mm.jpg   W110 Motor Mounts (OM615.940 Engine) - Remove Subframe?-passenger-side-mm-removed.jpg  


Last edited by Cairo1966_W110; 03-17-2021 at 03:42 PM. Reason: Cleaned up the text
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