Quote:
Originally Posted by CDL
Down shift and tell me you do not get compression braking? I didn't say Jake braking  If the switch functioned as Frank said. and you were driving for max, it would be shifting up and down wildly each time you touched/engaged the kickdown or got off full throttle. . Think 'shifting a manual through curves'.
The way mine had worked that was NOT an issue. Think about it.
My switch died (cracked) and now looking for a replacement it seems the NA market does not meet the spec of the non NA vehicles. There must be more than one type switch available. Just like FPR's |
Not sure if you're a troll or just very confused with how automatic transmissions work.
Full throttle does not automatically press the kickdown switch, the kickdown switch is just that little bit further past full throttle, requiring you to push the pedal hard enough to activate it. The switch is very stiff and gives a very tactile "click" when you do.
So long as the kickdown switch is held down, you will remain in "passing gear" until the road speed reaches such a point that the valve body overrides the kickdown and shifts up. When you let off the kickdown switch, you should shift back up at least 1 gear (assuming you dropped 2), and should immediately shift all the way back up into 4th when you let off the throttle.
If you have behavior at all different than that, you have other mechanical problems that need addressing. There is no car (by any manufacturer) that requires you to hit the kickdown switch a 2nd time to cancel a kickdown command.
Regarding the MB kickdown switches, there are 2 varieties. 2 pin, and 4 pin. They're used globally, there is no different version for the NA market and ECE market. The 4-pin is typically used on later cars with the CIS-E injection system.