Quote:
Originally Posted by My-red560SL
Thank you so much. I have yet to remove the heads. I just posted a question on which bolts to remove. I really am a novice and the manual is of no help. I know how an engine works and I rebuilt VW’s in the 70’s, but this is quite different. I also had a real shop manual in the day. This PDF crap I have access to for this car is making it more difficult than it should be. Once I get it all apart I’ll be fine. It’s the not knowing how it is all put together that is killing me. Breaking anything on this car is expensive!
I should mention I did the upper guides, chains & cam gears prior to this. I also rebuilt the entire subframes, rear axles & gearbox, rebuilt calipers, steering gearbox and so on. I have rebuilt everything mechanical but the engine and now I’m doing that. I have the mechanical skills, but I’m lacking the experience. I just don’t know what to expect.
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I personally have in this perspective, although the SL runs well, it needs a suspension build, and has various other items to do. But the reality is, there is not a need to drive the car, and it is relatively rust free. So, the goal now is to keep the body from rusting, and spin it around here and there to keep the rubber and bearings from developing flat spots. The R107 is going up in value and the 560Sl is one of the top grabbers. So, if you can, take your time, relax and do it correctly, after gaining the knowledge to do so.
The 5.6 liter for your model is the same as other models with that engine. Any MB 5.6L shop manual will work if it is the same year.
I am still not understanding the reasoning for the rebuild or pulling of the head. If it ran well before, the most beneficial would be to do a refurb with new gaskets and seals. I do understand the desire to take things to bits though. Engineers have that sort of inkling. Everything mechanical has to be taken apart and put back together. You have to reason, if it was fine in 2008 as far as core mechanics go, then it is ok now.
Best thing to do has already been advised from previous posts. Fix the timing guide then compression test. You should remember if it ran well or not when you parked it. The whole thread here doesn't quite add up.
Please see the value. These things are classics, and rust free specimens should be preserved if possible.
Edit
I just watched one of your videos, and it's quite impressive actually. I think you will get it figured out. I guess some of the thread is tongue and cheek. Now it adds up. I still would keep the head intact especially with that time-cert issue. Thats definitely more than a 5000 dollar car.