I towed our 1985 300D 600 miles to deliver to our son, using our 2002 T&C minivan w/ tow package. Didn't notice it back there except when I kept forgetting and wondering what idiot was tail-gating. Since an automatic, I disconnected the driveshaft at the rear and wired it up. It was a slight pain to reconnect it, which I did in a Walmart parking lot at 4 am by driving one side up on a curb to give room to crawl under. I brought cardboard to lie on. We didn't have to tow, but didn't want to drive both cars, plus I had to recover our 1984 300D w/ suspension problem so thought I might need to tow it back and wanted to test the method.

I had problems with my 1965 Dodge Dart not following on a turn when flat-towing, with the front wheels cocking to the side and jamming. That was a test tow around the block to take it to the DMW for registration before I got it running. I think the problem was that w/ today's radial tires, a 1960's car doesn't have enough caster, as I later found. Might work today since I used offset bushings on the upper control arm to allow more caster. Caster is where a line thru the 2 ball-joints hits the road in front of the tire contact patch. Bias-ply tires would flex to move the patch backwards for proper following. Think of it as "the shopping cart wheel" effect. I have heard of people putting bungee cords on the steering wheel to help it center but still allow some turning.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans