Quote:
Originally Posted by tbomachines
is your o2 sensor precat or post? I could see the O2 fouled or a post cat signal being bad and giving poor readout to the primitive ECU. Unless it was actually clogged, I dont quite understand how that fits together, especially if its precat at idle.
|
It’s pre-CAT. Sorry to be at dense, but I’m not sure the point you’re getting at. I have no idea if the O2 sensor was really needed, but like you said earlier they’re not expensive, under 30 bucks, and they do wear out, and this is an oldvehicle. I’ve not replaced one in this vehicle before, I’m certain of that.
I don’t regret the random parts replacing I did, just for my own entertainment and maybe others here’s a list of the parts:
Plugs, cap n rotor, cables, air filter. Ran a lot better for a week.
Coil, fuel filter, O2 sensor, EGR plus solenoid.
About two months ago I put in front rotors, calipers, bearings, and pads. Also a starter, it was clearly going. The front brake had been seizing now and then making a hell of a racket, then one of them went metal on metal, turns out the other side was close to that. I want to do the rear brakes and new drums, maybe new slave cylinders as well. I think the rears do a little bit of seizing and shuttering on occasion, just when cold but it’s a PITA. Not sure if a new master cylinder is advised, but if I had four new wheel cylinders, a new master plus major system flush would be pretty wild. A new TBI would be another upgrade I would think.
After that if I put in new rear bearings, this thing will be a happening rig.
OTOH, there is merit to the “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” point of view.